The Super Addition

Supplies:

• Green Pepper Pattern F813
• 1 1/2 yards of Jersey Stretch Spandex
• 3-4 yards Casa Satin
• 1 bag poly-fil
• 3-4 Snaps
• 1/4 yard clear fabric or vinyl
• Measuring tape
• Straight pins
• Elastic

Step 1: Take your pattern and cut it out. Placing it out onto your Jersey stretch fabric. Be sure to lengthen your pattern at the lengthen line by about an inch. This will allow for your under bust seam later on. Once pinned cut it out.

Step 2: Take the top part of your pattern and cut out a second piece.

Step 3: Measure and draw (with a pencil) your under bust line. Be sure to mark this where you want the seam to fall on your body.

Step 4: Cut across the seam you just drew. Now you should have one layer lower piece and two upper pieces.

Step 5: Open the top part of your fuku pattern and the repeat the step with the additional top piece you cut. Overlay the two top pieces so they match and pin the two together (they should match pretty close to perfectly)

Step 6: Now take your single layer bottom section and pin to the double top layer at your new under bust seam and sew.

Step 7: Open your bodice up, sew the top sleeve area together to create your head hole. Once this is done go ahead and sew your back seam together. The single back seam is the main reason we highly recommend the Green pepper pattern, however you may certainly use any ice skating pattern. At this point the only your crotch piece should be not sew together, and is where your will slide the bodice over your head with (later we will add snaps there)

Step 8: Put your fuku base to the side for a moment and pull out your with jersey stretch fabric again. With your measuring tape even out the edge of your fabric.

Step 9: From your newly straightened edge measure out approx. 4inches across the length of the fabric and cut.

Step 10: Fold the fabric you just cut in half and wrap it around your waist (where you want the skirt to lay) and mark where the center meets with a pin.

Step 11: Cut at an angle, being sure to cut inward towards the fold. This way when you open the fabric back up you get an inward “V” shape.

Step 12: Pin the “V” sides together  and sew, after finished fold back over in half. Creating a belt with a point.

Step 13: Using a straight edge ruler or your measuring tape draw out the desired angle you wish to cut into your waist band. This will provide you with the tapered front look.

Step 14: Sew 3 to 4inch sections along the waist band edges to allow for stuffing.

Step 15: Stuff your waistband lightly (no need to pack it in tight)

Step 16: Sew together the open spaces you had left open for stuffing.

Step 17: Now take your Casa Satin and cut two full circle skirts *** Please make sure you leave extra fabric length on your skirt, you will be hemming and making it the perfect length later on***

Step 18: Sew the two circle skirts together and iron down the seam. This is also a great opportunity to iron the rest of your skirting if you would like.

Step 19: Using your measuring tape pleat your skirt. You may use either box pleats, regular pleats or a combination of both. We prefer to use a single box pleat in the front and then regular pleats on either side folding towards another single box pleat in the back. Each of your pleats should be approx 2 inches when finished.

Step 20: For pleats like ours measure out 4 inches marking the 2 inch points with pins. Leaving the first two inches of fabric, fold the second 2 inches of fabric behind the first. ** please use as many pins as you need while making pleats**

Step 21: Now pin your waistband  to the top of your pinned pleated skirt.

Step 22: Since you now have both your waist band and skirting together take the time to figure out where you will be making your back seam based on how much extra fabric you have. Sew your back skirting seam and then sew your waistband to your skirting. Serge the seam where the waistband and Casa Satin meet.

Step 23: Remove the pins and try the skirt on. Using pins mark out on one half  where you want the hem of the skirting to fall on you.

Step 24: Remove the skirt and mark out the other half of your skirt (so the two are identical)

Step 25: Cut the Skirting leaving 1/2 inch extra for the serging process and serge the hem

Step 26: Now take your leotard base and some elsatic, measure out your elastic at where your leg holes will sit. Cut you elastic as needed and pin along the edge of the fabric right where you need the elastic to sit.

Step 27: Sew on the edge using a zigzag stitch, when finished roll the elastic over and sew using a zigzag stitch again ( in essence creating a rolled hem)

Step 28: At the bottom of the bodice where your two sides of the fabric meet in the crotch, roll under and sew. This will give you a sturdy base for adding your snaps later on

Step 29: Bows, Bows and more Bows. Here you will be creating the back bow that will be sitting on your fuku skirt. First measure out the ribbon stems (as we have decided to make the super versions our bow stems will be long) Length 28 inches in length, 4 inches at the stop in width and 6 inches angled at the bottom of the stem in width. Be sure to cut out 4 fabric pieces. In addition cut out a 11 inch by 6 inch rectangle (2 fabric pieces) this will become the top part of your bow.

Step 30: Iron…. When making bows it is extremely important you iron everything. By ironing you will ensure you keep the bow crisp and clean, in addition it will keep you from needing to use interfacing. After ironing sew your matching bow pieces (you should have three the two stems of the bow and the top part of your bow) and sew, be sure you sew with the nice side of the fabric to the inside. Leave a 2-3 inchs break to allow for stuffing and cut off the corners to make it easier to flip inside out.

Step 31: Now take the peices you just sewed and flip them inside out. Be sure to use a pencil or chopstick to push the corners out and iron.

Step 32: Now  Lightly stuff the top bow piece (your rectangle) and pinch in the center of the bow, using a zigzag stitch slowly sew the center of the bows to hold it in place.

Step 33: Now Measure out a 4 inch by 6 inch rectangle (single piece of fabric) This will become the middle cover for your bow. Sew the long side together flip and iron.

Step 34: Wrap the small cover peice you just made over the bow with the seam facing outward. Sew along the back as close as you can but leaving a little space. serge or cut the remaining fabric. Flip the piece now so the seams are now hidden.

Step 35: Now take your two stem pieces for your bow and pin to the inside of your skirt seam. Sew to the skirting using a zigzag stitch.

Step 36: Hand sew the top bow piece to the skirting along your hip roll (waistband) directly over where you just sewed your stem pieces.

Step 37: And now for even more bows! To complete your front bow cut 2 pieces of fabric at 7 inches by 14 and two pieces of fabric at 7 inches by 16 inches.  Sew each set of fabric pieces together the same way you did in step 30. Be sure to leave a hole to flip the fabric right side out. Please note you will not be stuffing these bows. Flip inside out and iron down.

Step 38: Now that you have flipped and ironed, take the smaller rectangle and lay it half way over the larger rectangle and pinch in the center. Zigzag stich at the center and repeat step 34.

Step 39: Adding your arm rolls  or sleeves. Out of the fuku base material cut a 17 inch strip on the fold of the fabric. Angle your cut of the fabric so at the very center it is 2 1/2 inches wide from the fold and on the ends 1 inch in width from the fold, as shown.

Step 40: Now fold the fabric in the opposite direction. Pin at the edge and sew just at the pinned edge as shown.

Step 41: Now fold back the fabric to the way it originally was cut only now the ends should be connected.. Pin as shown and sew as shown, be sure to leave a 1 inch hole in your seams to allow for stuffing. Once that is finished stuff lightly and finish off the seams.

Step 42: Now take your arm roll piece and pin to the sleeve hole on your fuku. Sew.